Without perfect exposure, there are no perfect images. There was a time when exposure was corrected in a darkroom.

TIPS FOR PERFECTING EXPOSURE WITH LIGHTROOM CLASSIC

Today's darkroom exists in our computers. Instead of trays filled with chemicals, we use editing software. When you don't manage to get the exposure correct out in the field, you can address issues and make exposure corrections on your computer. Adobe's Lightroom Classic is the preferred choice of most photographers.

Let's delve into three slightly more advanced ways of adjusting a RAW image's exposure using Lightroom Classic. It's helpful if you have experience with the basics of exposure correction. Here's a refresher on its definition.

First, What is Exposure Correction?

Exposure correction is the adjustment of the overall lightness or darkness of an image. Note that it doesn't spot-correct light and dark areas of an image. Typically, a photographer will do an initial and overall light/dark correction of the image. Spot-correction or fine-tuning usually happens after the overall exposure has been corrected. The exceptions to this editing order might be when a photographer is making adjustments strictly for artistic effect. Otherwise, photographers seek to balance out the exposure so that it's not too light or dark.

How to Use The Histogram

Exposure is a subjective element of photography. It's up to the photographer to decide how much exposure they want for their image. Artistic license aside, most photographers will strive for a technically balanced light and dark to make details more apparent. To achieve that effect - or to balance or correct it - in post-processing, the Histogram is an excellent tool. Make it your "friend" and get to know it well. You can use it to adjust exposure. So what is the Histogram?

The Histogram is a graph of the image's exposure. It's displayed in your camera by frame and in Lightroom's Develop module. The graph represents exposure. For example, the more to the right the graph indicates, the more exposed (lighter) it is. More left means more underexposed (darker) an image. A center-weighted graph shows an evenly exposed image.

To use the Histogram to correct exposure:

Grab and drag the middle of the graph to adjust the entire exposure.
Use the edges to adjust the shadows and highlights.

You can be subjective depending on how much artistic license you're striving for or how technically "correct" you'd like to be. Sometimes it's enough to click and drag on the graph until the clipping indicators (represented by small triangles) are no longer lit up. This usually sufficiently balances out the exposure to a basic level.

Now you can proceed to make other individual corrections such as contrast and saturation. However, we recommend that once you've completed further edits, you return to the Histogram to check its overall exposure. You might want to make some final exposure adjustments. Be sure to watch both the graph and the image itself for this last stage.

Adjust Specific Hues

Adjusting the hues in post-processing can help compensate for your camera's sensor, which isn't always precise. Lightroom allows you to modify hues individually in the HSL/Color panel. Too much brightness to the green? Not a problem. You can control each hue's exposure in the HSL/Color panel by frame.

The Adjustment Brush to Modify Exposure

Now, let's discuss using the Adjustment brush to fine-tune exposure. It's the most powerful tool when specific image areas need to be modified without affecting the entire picture. The beauty of the Adjustment brush is that it allows you to hone in on particular areas you'd like to adjust exposure. You just apply a mask, select/dial settings, and begin your adjustments. Here's how you do that:

Go to the Adjustment brush located in the Develop module. Click on it to open its settings.

Mask: We suggest you start with brushing on a mask before anything else. It will select the area you want to modify.

Press the O key on your PC's keyboard to turn on the mask.
Brush over the area on your photography, you would like to modify. (You'll see a reddish-pink overlay appear on those brushed areas. You also don't have to be super precise when making the selections.)
The Flow setting controls the adjustment amount. For example, a higher setting means more masking.
You can use the Feather setting for a softer brush edge to the area.
A lower setting means that you won't totally mask an area on your image; imagine it almost like how much ink you would like to come out of the well while making a selection.

Sliders: Once you've masked the area, you're ready to make further adjustments to that area by using sliders. You can now use sliders that control elements such as exposure, whites, blacks, highlights, and shadows.

If you want to make second or additional adjustments, click on the B setting. This creates a second Adjustment brush, independent of the first.

Using Presets

Once you've mastered the ways to correct exposure in your images, you might want to elevate your work to an artistic standard by using presets. It will save you significant time in post-processing by allowing you to apply artistic styles with just one or two clicks.

Rather than spending hours going through individual images and making creative adjustments to each one, you can apply predetermined styles with presets. We have developed numerous presets ideal for different photography genres and presets that easily apply image styles. For example, we've developed presets that are gorgeous for weddings or family portraits. But we also offer presets that enhance the image's mood, such as our Bright & Airy Collection or our Moody Collection.

When you purchase a preset, we provide easy to use instructions on downloading the preset.

Lastly, here are three other photography blog posts that you might find helpful as you expand your post-processing skills.